Tip of the Month Collection
Every month we try to feature a helpful tip
from one of our members. Below is a collection of tips from months past.
JUNE 2010
FLIES, TICKS,
GNATS, NOSEE-EMS, OH MY!
It is that
season again. Here are a few suggestions for the upcoming months:
Flies - Pennies
in water in a Ziplock bag hung around the barn keeps flies at bay.
Some people swear by this trick - results are mixed depending on where
the baggies are hung. Use roll-on repellant to spot treat eyes since
the saliva of any biting fly can lead to infections. Fly sheets, fly
masks, ear nets, and fly boots are all useful for horses that live
outside much of the time. Minimize stagnant water (add goldfish or
baking soda to the water trough) and removing fresh manure helps to keep
flies at bay.
Ticks - Spray
PAM on the horses legs before a ride, or use Vaseline, to keep the ticks
from getting hold of the hair and attaching to the skin. Be sure
to wash it off with soap after the ride to prevent skin problems. Use a
flea comb on dark horses (when you cannot see the ticks) to remove
anything that did not come up the legs.
A flea comb can
also be used to remove scabs resulting from rainrot.
Gnats, NoSee-Ems
- Use Noxema cream on the horse's belly during a ride. This keeps
the little biting bugs off because of the smell. This cream can
also be used on bug bites, sunburn, and rain rot - for relief.
MORE ON SKIN:
Hives: If
a horse has hives, it is usually due to a reaction to something in the
environment like bugs, food/hay, or medicine. Many reactions are
caused by topical irritants and are limited to one area of the horse.
Systematically induced hives appear all over the body. If you
notice hives, immediately check that the nostrils are clear - to ensure
the airway is not swelled. Look for signs of swelling around the
nose and mouth and Call the Vet. If localized, rinse the
affected area with cool water and clean with a mild soap, then rinse
soap completely off. A dog shampoo for sensitive skin is a good
option.
Call the Vet
with an update if the horses seems to have any difficulty breathing and
other signs of illness (colic or listlessness) are seen.
TICK REMOVAL
A School Nurse has written the info below -- good enough to share
-- And it really works!!
I had a pediatrician tell me what she believes is the best way to remove
a tick. This is great, because it works in those places where it's some
times difficult to get to with tweezers: between toes, in the middle of
a head full of dark hair, etc.
Apply a glob of liquid soap or Vaseline to a cotton ball. Cover the tick
with the soap-soaked cotton ball and swab it for a few seconds (15-20),
the tick will come out on its own and be stuck to the cotton ball when
you lift it away. It's much less traumatic for the patient and easier
for me.
Unless someone/an animal is allergic to soap, I can't see that this
would be damaging in any way. I even had my doctor's wife call me for
advice because she had one stuck to her back and she couldn't reach it
with tweezers. She used this method and immediately called me back to
say, "It worked!"
Please pass on. Everyone needs this helpful hint.
Insects breathe through their skin. This acts to suffocate them.
MARCH 2010
How Green is Your Horse Farm?
These simple and environmentally-friendly horsekeeping practices can
bring your farm into harmony with the land.
By Alayne Blickle
This is what I do for a living: As the creator
and director of Horses for Clean Water, I teach people how to manage
horses in a way that works for them, their animals, their neighborhood
and the environment. In other words, I promote ways to manage horses
that minimize our impact on the world around us.
Implementing green practices on a horse farm
needn’t be difficult or expensive. Many of the topics are
interconnected. For example, controlling water pollution improves the
health of nearby streams and rivers, which in turn improves their
suitability as wildlife habitat, which increases natural insect
predators and decreases your populations of flies and mosquitoes. Once
you’ve established your new Earth-friendly systems, you may well find
that you are saving time and money and doing less work in the long run.
I’ve introduced hundreds of people to
environmentally friendly methods of horsekeeping. But I also encourage
everyone to get in touch with local conservation districts, extension
offices, environmental groups and other resources. A wealth of
information is out there for anyone who wants to learn about how these
strategies can best be applied in their area. Here’s how you can get
started.
Reduce Water Runoff
Nonpoint source pollution--contaminants that reach natural
waterways via runoff over land or through the ground. Originating from
precipitation as well as irrigation, leaky hoses and other man-made
sources, waters that drain through livestock manure have a big impact on
streams and wetlands: Sediments cloud the water, nutrients cause
unbalanced vegetation growth and bacteria contaminate shellfish beds.
Even if you don’t have a stream or pond on your property, tainted runoff
can damage local lakes or groundwater.
In our paddocks we use automatic waterers,
which use only as much water as our horses can drink. Our insulated,
geothermal system helps keep water cool during the summer and prevents
freezing in the winter. Another advantage to an automatic waterer is
that since water is circulating and not stagnant, it won’t provide
habitat for mosquitoes.
Here are other methods for conserving water
and reducing the amount of polluted runoff from your farm:
If the water from your wash stall runs off onto the ground, plant grass
or other vegetation to absorb it, filter out contaminants and break down
soaps and chemicals.
Make sure hoses, faucets and sprayer heads don’t leak.
Pick up manure in high-density turnout areas frequently.
Follow instructions when applying commercial fertilizers and pesticides,
and do not use more than is necessary.
Plant “rain gardens,” consisting of native plants clustered in shallow
depressions with good drainage, to capture runoff from driveways,
downspouts and other areas where water flows after storms.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
offers fact sheets, management tips and other information on nonpoint
source pollution at
www.epa.gov/owow/nps. Suggestions for reducing storm-water runoff, such as
green roofs and permeable pavements, are described at
cfpub.epa.gov/npdes/greeninfrastructure/technology.cfm.
Even a small horsekeeping operation generates
tons of manure per year, which if handled improperly can cause problems
with odors, flies and runoff.
Some horse owners store manure then spread it
on pastures in its raw form. Manure is a good fertilizer, but raw feces
may harbor parasite eggs and pathogens, so it’s best not to spread it on
fields that horses are grazing.
Promote composting as an excellent
manure-management alternative. The breakdown of organic waste by
microorganisms in a controlled environment, composting creates a
nutrient-rich humus that bears no resemblance to its original
ingredients. Although composting requires a little more attention, it
offers several advantages over storing and spreading raw manure:
The heat generated by composting kills most parasite eggs and pathogens.
Fly populations decline with lost breeding grounds and the death of
their eggs and larvae.
Composting eliminates foul odors and reduces the volume of waste
materials you have to move.
Compost improves the condition and productivity of soil by returning
beneficial microorganisms to it, improving its moisture-holding capacity
and supplying nitrogen in a form accessible to plants.
Consider "outsourcing" the task to the
community. Public landfills or commercial topsoil or garden facilities
may accept your manure, but some may charge a special handling fee.
Local gardeners, organic farmers and landscapers often seek out sources
for horse manure: Post a "free manure" notice in a local garden center
or on an Internet bulletin board, and you may find people willing to
come haul it away.
http://equisearch.com/horses_care/farm_ranch/management/green_horse_farm_020110/
Quick Fixes for Manure
Innovative tips for managing manure, plus hot links to places you can
learn more about it.
By Ronna Snyder
Burn it: Dry horse manure during warm weather
by regularly spreading it out and turning it. Once it's dry (you'll know
it is when it becomes papery in texture), pile it and burn it. Caveat:
First check burning regulations in your area. Side benefit: The
slow-burning pile generates fly-repelling smoke.
De-ice with it: In winter, use the super-heated soil produced by
composting to melt icy areas in paddocks. (Compost piles generate heat
even in cold weather.)
Smile and dial: Contact local fertilizer users, such as mushroom
growers, resorts, hotels, and parks departments. Ask if they could use
the manure. An example: In one Ohio area, large horse operations that
use straw bedding have their manure piles picked up by a soup company,
which then uses the stuff to grow mushrooms for its cream-of-mushroom
soup.
Ride on it: Spread your manure/bedding mix in your arena and along
trails to soften and deepen footing.
Flower power: Use manure as mulch to build raised flower beds. Tip:
Before planting, cover the bed with black plastic to "cook" and destroy
weed seeds.
Hug a tree: Mound manure around tree trunks. You'll not only fertilize
your trees, but will also inhibit weed growth.
For more on manure management, contact these
resources:
Northeast Regional Agricultural Engineering Service. Ask for its
comprehensive On-Farm Composting Handbook. Contact: 152 Riley-Robb Hall,
Cooperative Extension, Ithaca, NY, 14853-5701; (607) 255-7654; or e-mail
NRAES@cornell.edu
Alayne Blickle, Program Director for Horses for Clean Water. She has
creative ideas for manure management, and conducts classes and seminars
on the topic. Contact: (425) 432-6116; or e-mail
ARBlickle@aol.com.
Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS). It's listed in your phone
book under federal government, U. S. Department of Agriculture, and/or
Natural Resource Conservation Service.
Soil Conservation District. Ask folks at the NRCS for this phone number
or look for it under county listings in your phone book.
Cooperative Extension Office. Check under county listings in your phone
book. This article originally appeared in the May, 1999 issue of
Horse & Rider magazine.
Local solid waste department in your county. Look under county listings
in your phone book.
Your public library. Look for books and magazines that feature
composting tips.
FEBRUARY 2010
Winter Worming
Most horse owners are well aware of the
importance of good worm control in maintaining their horses’ health and
reducing the incidence of colic. However, horses are often overdosed
with wormer which is costly to the owner, prevents the development of
some immunity by the horse, and hastens the development of worm
resistance to currently available anthelmintic products.
Worms of particular importance in the adult
horse are small redworms (small strongyles/Cyathastomes) and tapeworms (Anaplocephala
sp.). Other worms, which are less significant as they are readily
controlled by pasture management and worming, are: stomach bots (Gastrophilus
intestinalis); large redworms (large strongyles); pinworms (Oxyuris equi);
stomach hairworms (Trichostrongylus axei) and lungworms (Dictyocaulus
sp.). White worms (large roundworms/Parascaris sp.) and threadworms (Strongyloides
westeri) are mostly a problem for young stock, i.e. horses less than
three years old, as older horses will have developed a good resistance
to these.
REDUCE THE WORM BURDEN ON PASTURES
Pasture management has proven to be highly
effective in the control of worms so appropriate hygiene strategies
should be agreed for all premises.
Droppings should be removed once a week in winter and twice a week in
the summer. Turnout paddocks should be cleared daily. Removing droppings
is particularly important during mild autumns and wet summers as these
conditions favour the survival and spread of worms on the pasture.
Ideally horses should be stocked one per acre, although this is often
impractical.
Mixed or alternate grazing of pasture with cattle and sheep is a good
idea as they act as ‘biological vacuum cleaners’ and ensure that the
pasture is evenly grazed. With the exception of the stomach hairworm,
cattle and sheep share none of the important horse worms and this worm
is readily controlled in programmes built around redworm control.
Where possible, grazing should be rested from horses for at least five
months of the year as this is how long the small redworm larvae can
survive on the pasture.
Young stock should be managed separately where possible, as they have
lower worm immunity and within an older group they may be forced to
graze worm heavy areas of pasture.
Other important adjuncts to a good control programme are manually
removing bot eggs from the hair coat and cleaning the dock and head
areas with separate sponges to control pinworms. Horses should not be
fed directly from the ground - hay racks or nets and feed bowls should
be used.
COMMON MISTAKES IN WORM CONTROL
Don’t rely solely on drugs – good pasture management is the most
important element of worm control
The aim of worming is to reduce the number of worms and eggs on the
pasture - both inside and outside of your horse – it is imperative that
all horses on a pasture receive the same drug on the same day. Horses’
weights vary tremendously. Ideally you should use a weight tape to help
dose your horse correctly.
The manufacturer’s recommended dosing intervals for products containing
moxidectin and ivermectin are 13 and 8 weeks respectively. You should
follow these recommendations, or perform faecal egg counts as described
below to allow longer intervals between dosing.
From:
http://www.equinehospital.net/Worming.htm
WINTER RIDING
By Debbie Moors
Here are a few tips for taking the chill off
barn and riding time.
1. Wear layers. Before you head out to
the barn, know whether you're just going out to feed and check on the
horses, or if you'll be riding. If you're not doing strenuous barn
chores or schooling your horse, wear heavier clothes. And, if you are
going to be getting your heart rate up and working hard, dress in
layers.
Wear a light-weight base layer that'll wick
sweat away from your skin (polypropalene or silk are two options) then
follow that with a middle layer of wool, or a synthetic that insulates
without adding a lot of bulk. A jacket system that has a zip-in vest or
jacket offers even more options.
2. If you'll be trail riding, pack a small
waterproof container or ziplock bag that has matches, an extra layer
of warmth and a "space blanket." Boating supply companies offer small
kits that are waterproof and crush proof, and can usually be slipped
into a saddlebag or fanny pack.
3. Warm up. A good grooming session
before you ride will warm you up and will help warm your horse's
muscles, too.
4. Check your horse's hooves for snow
or ice if he's been outdoors. Pick out his feet, then spritz with
cooking spray or coat with Vaseline to keep snow and ice from packing
into his feet.
5. While grooming horse, wear your horse's
bridle under your jacket to help warm the bit, or wrap it in gel hand
warmers. Or, check out The Bitten Store's bit warmer--it willdouble as a
body warmer or can slip into your pocket as a hand warmer.
6. Plan extra time to cool your horse down
after a ride. If your horse is clipped, consider using a quarter
sheet--it'll drape over his hindquarters and keep him a little warmer
during cold-day rides.
7. Make sure you're able to move insulated
boots easily in the stirrups. Order over-sized stirrups for use
during the winter months. Try gel-pack foot warmers.
8. Stretch and warm your muscles before
climbing into the saddle. Give your horse plenty of time to warm up
before you start a strenuous schooling session.
9. For a long ride, wear a Camelbak (drink
delivery system that you wear like a backpack) or similar product to
carry water. It's easy to get dehydrated in the winter, and dehydration
makes you more susceptible to hypothermia and frostbite.
10. Water is a concern for horses.
Studies show that when they're offered warm water, horse's will drink
more in the winter than if their water is ice cold. Keep an eye on water
tanks and buckets (clean and ice-free). Decreased water intake can
increase risk for colic.
11. Take a riding break. Check in on
your horse, then grab your tack and head to a warm tack room, or your
house, and do a little cold-day cleaning. Wash bits (Listerine makes a
great bit cleaner and disinfectant), clean headstalls and saddles, and
check for any worn leather or broken buckles.
12. Do a safety check. Walk through the
barn and pasture, checking for ice and hazards. Mix sawdust and de-icer
to both melt ice and absorb moisture, and double-check water lines when
frigid temps are predicted.
13. Visualize summer. Sometimes,
staying motivated requires goal setting. Think about goals for yourself
and your horse, plan to attend some winter clinics and horse expos, and
make a month-by-month list of what you'll do to make your goals come
true.
14. Enjoy your horse. Even if you only
have time for a deep whiff of eau d'equine or you
just sit and listen to barn noises for awhile,
it can help recharge your batteries for that next sparkling winter day,
when winter riding is at its best.
Adapted from:
http://equisearch.com/horses_care/health/winter/winterriding_111505/
JANUARY 2010
Feeding horses
in Winter
We are only in
January and have February to go. Here are some important facts
about feed management during really cold weather.The following is from:
www.gaitedhorses.net/Articles/coldweathermgmt.shtml
Various factors
affect the ability of a horse to withstand cold. Large bodied horses,
e.g. draft horses, are much more able to withstand cold because of a
lower relative body surface area per unit of weight (area:weight ratio).
Belgians are more cold tolerant than Thoroughbreds. Newborn foals have
very poor cold tolerance. Horses up to one year of age are less cold
tolerant than adult horses. In late pregnancy (9th month and beyond),
energy requirements of mares increase and, consequently, cold tolerance
decreases. However, a winter-adapted, well-fed, pregnant mare is at no
higher risk than a gelding. Poor teeth, parasites and disease also
decrease the cold tolerance of horses.
Horses
kept in a shelter (shed) can conserve up to 20% more body heat than
horses kept in an exposed area. A three-sided shed is suitable
protection from cold winds and snow. A typical shed should be 8 metres
deep and should provide an area of 7.5 - 9 m2 per horse for lying down.
Adequate bedding, preferably straw, should be provided in sheds,
especially for young horses. Well-bedded bluffs, coulees and treed areas
can serve as alternatives for sheds. Animals that are able to lie down
can reduce surface area heat loss by 20%- 25%.
Feeding: Dietary energy is the only nutrient that must be
increased for horses kept at temperatures below their LCT. The LCT for
growing and adult horses in Canada is 0°C and -15°C, respectively.
Maintenance energy intakes of adult horses must be increased 2.5% per
Celsius degree below temperatures of 15°C or the equivalent of 2% more
feed. Feeding good quality hay is the easiest and most suitable way to
supply additional energy for idle, adult horses kept outdoors in cold
weather. Horses will increase their voluntary feed intake if permitted.
Horses can be fed hay free-choice without fear of producing laminitis
(founder). However, owners who are limit-feeding their horses should
ensure that 2% more feed per degree below -15oC is available to their
horses. Groups of horses housed outdoors should be fed in a way that
reduces competition among horses. Grouped horses typically have a
pecking order for feed and space. Often, timid horses will become thin,
even if plenty of feed is available, because the dominant horses in the
group won't allow them to eat. Any type of feeder, including feeding on
top of clean snowy areas, can be used, as long as enough individual
feeding space (3 to 15 metres between horses) is available for the
horses in the group. Feeders are preferable since they will reduce feed
wastage by 25%. This is especially true of those with a floor in them.
Salt and mineral should also be provided. Clean fresh water should
always be available to horses. Snow is an unsuitable substitute. A horse
would have to consume ten times its water requirement in snow to meet
its needs. The horse would then need to use energy to raise the
temperature of the snow from the outside ambient temperature to the
horse's body temperature of 37o C. This is a huge energy drain and, when
coupled with poorly digestible hay, can lead to gut impaction.
Winter pastures should not be relied upon to provide the sole
source of nutrients for horses since they are usually poor feed sources
for overwintered horses. Not only is the nutrient quality poor but, in
deep snow, the maintenance energy needs of horses can increase by 40%
because the horses have to crater or paw through the snow to find low
quality feed.
The cost of weight loss in the horse is much higher than most people
realize. Thin, malnourished stallions lose their ability to produce
sperm. Thin mares have a very low conception rate. Underfed weanlings
can become permanently stunted. Finally, the extra cost of feed needed
to rehabilitate a thin horse back to normal will equal or exceed the
cost of the feed that should have been given to the horse to maintain
its body weight. Feeding horses is costly; not feeding horses is more
costly.
To Blanket or Not to Blanket?
When the cold winter
weather hits, many horse owners automatically bring out the horse
blankets. However, a horse’s normal winter coat is much more insulating
than a blanket, and unless the horse has been clipped, is outside
without a windbreak, or has been moved to a colder climate during winter
months, it will usually actually be warmer without a blanket.
|
The longer winter coat helps to trap the body heat against the
skin. Also, tiny muscles in the skin raise the hairs, creating
tiny air pockets that heighten the insulating effect. Flatten
this ‘fluffed-up’ coat by adding layers of light blankets, or
even one heavy one, can actually make the horse colder. If a horse is not accustomed to being blanketed, it can put
the horse at increased risk. If it becomes overheated, it will
begin to sweat. The dampness causes it to become chilled later,
which then increases the risk of
pneumonia or other respiratory infections. If a horse must be
blanketed in the colder temperatures of morning, make sure that
you or another responsible hand is there to take the blanket off
when temperatures rise later in the day. |
September 2009 tips from Jan Wulf
When temperatures get cold, your horse might
need to wear a winter blanket. Clean your
existing blankets before winter sets in and
consider the following when you buy new winter
horse blankets:
1. Type
There are two types, namely stable and turnout
blankets. A stable blanket is thick and
comfortable and is worn when your horse is
stabled (and the horse is clipped and/or barn is
chilly). Turnout blankets will provide more
maneuverability as they are designed to be worn
when your horse is in the pasture.
2. Outer Shell
Look for an outer shell that is made of material
that is windproof and waterproof. These winter
horse blankets should also be resistant to rot
and mildew. Be sure that the blanket can
"breathe" so the horse does not get overheated
during season transitions.
3. Fit
Think about the fit. If you buy a blanket that
fits your horse too tightly, abrasions and sores
may develop due to skin irritation. Avoid buying
winter horse blankets that are too loose. These
blankets can slip down and get tangled in your
horse's legs which may lead to serious injury.
Measure for size and try the blankets on your
horse - a 72 inch size in one brand does not
equal a 72 in another. If unsure, take along a
tape measure to a store.
4. Inner Lining
Look for a lining that is smoother than wool.
This prevents the lining from irritating your
horse's skin. Consider winter horse blankets
that are filled with foam particles or
fiberfill. These materials are much lighter
while providing the necessary insulation.
5. Amount
Buy winter horse blankets for each
horse. If horse share blankets, you will
increase the risk of spreading skin diseases to
your other horses. Check for tears or loose
straps that need to be reattached.
August 2009 tips from Jan Wulf
Flies repelled by pennies?
This is the latest on the internet for repelling flies! Put a few
pennies in a baggie with water, hang it up and the flies stay away! Not
sure? Worth a tryout - cheap trick if it works. It would be great to
hear about successes or failures - send comments to janwulf@aol.com
Check out this web site on how it works or not:
http//animals.howstuffworks.com/animal-facts/water-bags-repel-flies.htm
Good luck!
June 2009 tips from Jan Nelson
Rain Rot? Yes, the rain
has been significant this spring year. Solutions depend on the horse
and the severity of the problem. Some have had success with a mixture
of Listerine and Mineral Oil - put 1/2 & 1/2 into a fly sprayer, shake
it up and spray twice on the areas affected. The mineral oil allows it
to last longer when it does rain. One vet (unnamed) recommends DMSO but
it burns on some horses' sore areas. Another option is Noxema - also
useful for noseeems, bug bites and sun burn. Horses don't like the
smell much, but it keeps them from licking it off. There are many
options available, including expensive vet creams. See:
http://www.equusite.com/articles/health/healthRainRot.shtml
Ground Training - why is
it so important? Groundwork is essential for your horse to respect you
and will definitely help when riding. Need more? Look at
http://www.alphahorse.com/horse-groundwork.html
Trail Riding - Plan
ahead. Your horse will enjoy a change of venue from the show ring and
lessons. Horses become more calm, more fit and less spooky if trail
riding is incorporated in a regular work out. Safety is critical. Plan
ahead for good weather, but a last minute check on the weather is always
a good idea, especially with our recent VA storms. Always go with a
buddy. See:
http://horses.about.com/od/horsesportsexplained/a/trailsaftey.htm
April 2009 tips from Jan Nelson
Spring checklist:
Special attention is called for you horse as spring arrives. Check off
these issues to travel to area shows or trails:
Immunization Nutrition Skin problems Check teeth - float if needed
(check at least once a year, more often for young horses) Hoof
care/shoeing Parasite control- worming Start an appropriate exercise
program Training (new or refresher, horse or rider) Breeding soundness
(if necessary) Get the necessary tests such as a Coggins. See this web
site for descriptions of all the immunizations.
http://www.thehorse.com/viewarticle.aspx?id=4168
Muddy feet or rain rot?
Pick out the feet regularly and check for rain rot. Soak any lumps with
warm water and mineral oil, peel them easily and sometimes a mixture of
Listerine and mineral oil can clear it up or use an over the counter
product, applied regularly.
Ticks are back!
Check your horse regularly, especially for any swollen joints (an
indicator of Lyme Disease). Itchy ticks and tick lesions cause pastured
horses to ferociously rub trees, fences and shelter walls, abrading
throats, necks and hindquarters and destroying their manes and tails.
Severe infestations produce anemia, loss of appetite and depression.
Ticks can infect any horse—or horse owner—with Lyme disease,
ehrlichiosis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever and tick-bite paralysis.
Standard insect solutions rarely phase these rugged pests.
If you hand-pick ticks, wear gloves. To remove a tick, grasp it as close
to its host's skin as possible using fingers or forceps. Don't squeeze.
Apply slow, steady, upward pressure until the tick comes away intact.
Drop detached ticks into a jar of soapy water, then dispose of
tick-laden liquid by burying it or flushing it down the toilet.
Trailer Checklist
Here is a list to be sure you have everything for traveling with your
horse:
· Check your tire pressure, wheel lugs, trailer brakes, emergency
breakaway system, hitch and exterior lights.
· Check the tire pressure on your spare tires.
· Load your rig with emergency items such as hand tools, WD40, tire
changing tools (tongue wheel chock, flat boards, jacks, and plastic
tarp), gloves, tow chain, jumper cables and bungee cords to hold down
loose items. Also remember your emergency roadside kit complete with
flares, triangles, sand, shovel and flashlights.
· Check your engine fluids, oil level, filter, wiper blades, battery
condition and fuel tanks.
· Truck and trailer registrations, proof of insurance and towing
information.
· Pack a sleeping bag, water, blankets, toilet paper, wet wipes, hat,
gloves, boots, water and snacks in case you break down or need to stay
over somewhere.
· Remember maps, cell phone, important phone numbers and first aid kits
(for you and the horse).
· In case of an accident, take a restraint for your horse (halter chain,
drugs, etc.)
· Horse feed, hay, electrolytes, water and pails.
· Saddles, pads, blankets, halters, bridles, brushes, lead rope and
medications. Extra stirrup leathers & reins are helpful.
· Riding Helmet, chest protector (if jumping)
· Horse health papers (ID or brand card, registration, EIA test results,
health certificate, proof of vaccination).
· Finally, remember to leave your travel arrangements with family or
friends at home in case of an emergency.
See web site:
http://www.lakotatrailers.com/owners/checklist.asp
March 2009 tips from Jan Nelson
Wind & Horses: March winds are strong - what are the hazards for horses? The most important is their eyes. Horses will turn their rear into the wind and use anything to break the wind itself - a tree or even a fence pole - to protect their eyes from debris in the wind. Provide horses with windbreaks or even fly masks during wind storms. Other hazards may have occurred during a storm and you don't see it yet. Check out this story: http://www.examiner.com/x-511-Denver-Horse-Examiner~y2009m2d18-Horses-and-wind-storm-safety--take-it-from-me
Founder? Here we go again. With spring grass comes the opportunity for founder. Keep feeding hay while spring grass comes in and limit the horse's access to the spring grass. There is not much nutrition in the grass, but a lot of sugar! Use grazing muzzles for those horses most affected. But, what is it? Here is an article that talks about why it happens: http://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/livestock/nutrition/bza05s01.html
This article talks about signs of founder and ways to prevent founder: http://www.aaep.org/health_articles_view.php?id=66
Looking for a Trainer:
Have you struggled with finding the right trainer? Clinics might help
get some perspective about qualities of different trainers. Some steps
to follow:
1. Figure out your priorities. Do you want to improve jumping skills?
Improve your seat? Work on your horse's responsiveness? Do you want to
be trained or want the horse to be trained? What are your long term
goals?
2. Talk to friends or those in your feed store to see who they
recommend. What do they like/not like about the trainer?
3. Meet with a potential trainer. Discuss your needs, your horse's
experience, and cost. Can the trainer come to you? Do you have to go
somewhere far away? Do they require the horse be with them for a while?
In this meeting, see if you have a connection with the trainer. Does the
person explain things well?
4. Schedule a tryout. With no commitments! You may not want more than
one lesson. Consider whether or not the instruction is matching the
result(s). If anything makes you uncomfortable or the horse nervous, pay
attention and stop doing it. See:
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-pick-a-horse-trainer-487875.html
Often using more than one trainer for different purposes is useful to
concentrate on different aspects at different points in your riding. See
this article: http://www.animalforum.com/htrainer.htm
Remember: If you decide to take the horse somewhere to be trained, visit
the facility and observe that person doing training first! Also, check
on progress weekly. Ask the trainer to give you a lesson at the end of
the horse training so you can see what's different about your horse and
what you need to do to maintain/improve the progress made.